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can I have it lol, I'm making a rig for flying in simulators and video games. This video is very useful!

Wow. I just fixed mine following your video. Thanks a ton!! I have a 15 year old whirlpool similar to yours in the video.

I want to add an external speaker jack from the chassis, my amp circuit board has a yellow wire connected to the middle of the speaker between the two terminals does a yellow wire means ground because I want to convert to a head for my external speaker one by 12 cab if you can help me I really appreciate it even better. If you have an email I can send you a picture so you have an idea what I’m talking about. Thanks.

Now I have heard of them pull-up resistors before but I ain't never heard about them hold-up capacitors. 😂

would it make sense to either use the nano as a spi slave? or, use the nano's spi as master to read the original shift register of the controller? just for the sake of reducing the latency

The Nintendo cables and receptacles... that's pretty cool!

Thank you for this, you have helped me identify some 1978's soviet PNP transistors. You explained this very well and the part when you said the higher voltage drop that is the emitter made things a lot easier. Cheers!

Hi !! I bought two of these modules, but when connected VCC and GND, it makes a little fast flash of one led, and nothing else. What do I do ? thanks !

I want to use such an isolated dc-dc converter in my project. I have a microcontroller with bluetooth that is driving a DAC, however the microcontroller is making the power line very noisy and I want to isolate it. I am wondering if that is going to cause issues with the communication between dac and microcontroller since their grounds will be isolated from each other but the i2s lines will be driven relative to the microcontroller's ground. Is it possible to bring the two isolated grounds to the same potential without the noise escaping the isolated circuit?

Don't get me wrong but it would probably be a good idea to get some bins to organize all those loose parts in the desk, at least those big capacitors that are taking lot of space.

Fun stuff as always. I love the options for the bottles. All mine are almost full. I might get a few more and try the other nozzles. Those long twisty ones could be really good for deoxit.

AmTech is the best flux! 😆

Those TRS sockets are awesome! Very good solution for a very common problem! Thanks for finding them!

I wouldn't buy IC's from China. I learned the hard way. Low chances that they are genuine, meet datasheet specs, or work at all.

All sorts of interesting stuff. That TM1637 can drive up to 6 characters, or read 16 keys. First exposure to that. Also unfamiliar with the MCP6002, but it is so inexpensive, must be a jellybean opamp.

AWESOME buys! Anyway, just wanted to say a quick "hi" and let you know that I really enjoy these mailbag videos! Always see something new I never knew I needed. Heh.

Thanks 👍

You are going to need a bigger desk soon 😀

Well Explained Video For A Person Without Any Electronic Experience

Where to download the synth.h zip library ?

Recently I buyed mounted this proyect on pcbway. I never used arduino, and I can't work it. I download arduino ide, but I don't know what is the code and the process to work. I try with a code of the library but not sound the music. Also I wanna use this like a midi module, is posible, or not with this proyect?

Why is the OPAMP needed as a buffer, what would be missing if we just use a 3,3V Zener diode and plug is straight into the ADCs?? Thanks

Had 2 batteries that were both dead and wouldn't charge. Your technique worked great but I did do a 30 second charge from a car battery charger on each of them before putting them on the power strip and to the regular charger and following your instructions. They both charged back up.

Is it possible to use 2 of these in series, to have 200 steps ? Did someone tried this already ?

does kicad no longer have generate netlist?

baking soda, charcoal and toilet paper make good reinforcement for liquid ca glue

👍👍👍👍👍

inputs need jumpers to set pull up or down.

Who doesn't like the blinken lights? 😄 But I have a few considerations about this. Firstly, all the inputs are pulled HIGH, this will make whatever connected to be pulled HIGH too, and in some cases, this can cause problems. Secondly, it cannot identify a floating connection, it will show it as HIGH too. I think instead of MOSFET level shifters, proper 3 state gates/buffers on the input will do a better job.

Nice to see a logic input fet that knows there is something other than 5V logic out there. VGSth is a nice 1.8V max so will work well with 3v3 logic. How are you detecting the input, polling or interrupt. i'd like to got the interrupt so you can add pulse stretching to the menu. when looking for glitches a fast pulse might not be seen, but with a pulse stretcher the LED will light to give you the indication is not what you are expecting. was common on old school logic testers to help with clocks and enables etc.

Only downside of those levelshifters is that they only work for signals actively pulled low. So they will not work on a high side open collector output. Something to remember :) Alternative would have been to just use a series resistor and maybe clamp diodes. Would give you the option to set the pull (up or down).

forgot to ACTIVE the partition.....

So stupid that this isn't a FRU

Absolute legend, this worked perfectly

If you live in the USA, GRS (Glen Retro Show) through Thunderstick Studio (tsticks) sell a limited edition IKARI Warriors Super Joystick made by Baolian Industry Co. He opened up shipments world wide but UPS shipping will double costs compared to continental USA shipping. He offers other spinners, trackballs, Tron arcade style joystick with push-pull spinner, Star Wars arcade style control yoke, etc. Most controls can use USB input to Raspberry Pi or computers running MAME. He is trying to bring ease and fun to Retro gaming.

Thanks, the remote control works now.

Elegoo bboards are total shit

It worked!!

'promosm'

An important question missed here is does this remember the last known setting after it is powered off and back on?

I really dont even want to help the arduino crowd. Folks, if you want to get started in electronics, there is a pot of gold underneath the nearest available arduino or rasberry pi board. Just go grab it and you will be basically the same as an EE.

cool video

TTL outputs SHOULD be 5 volts.. 3v3 is just lame :D

can't thank you enough for this. i'm working on a desktop sized trigger with the same layout as a certain javanese instrument to use as a practice tool. the instrument is comprised of two rows of seven horizontal gongs. the scale ascends left to right on the lower row and ascends right to left on the upper row an octave above. so it's a bit of a brain breaker if you're not used to it. it's also enormous and i wouldn't even know where to get one if i had the money and the space! so how to practice? not using MIDI hadn't even crossed my mind! but a self contained unit that just does the one thing it's meant for has an elegance to it. some serious food for thought. of course i would either need two 7 channel boards or 4 X 4 to pull it off... anyway, thanks for the great explanations of each component's job in the circuit. this solves the issues i was facing with piezo and teensy. very excited to look more deeply at the code and see what ideas are born;)

THANK YOU SO MUCH

lol I really like this project. I particularly like the piezo drums at the end. Very fun

For Contra, you have to wait for the title screen to stop moving before starting the code.

Thanks, man. You helped me a lot

Liking that nes cart

WHO RUNS BARTER TOWN?!?!?! 😆